Running to the House of the Sun

David passed me just as we hit Pulehu road less than two miles into the run. I tried again to jog, but it was a no go. My right ankle was bothering me, I was tight, and I had a list of things I could complain about if I bothered to become concerned with them. We ran down the dark Pulehu cane road, first pretty much alone, and then, as the morning came upon us and it became closer to dawn, the early morning traffic started to barrel out of the hills. Most people are cool and if they can they will give a runner or a biker as much space a possible. But the guy who will kill you either doesn't see you or is one of those kind that sees you, and gets worried about crossing the line into no traffic, and damn near hits you for nothing. When cars are doing over 60 on bad back roads it becomes a bit of a burden. My progress was a bit slower as I dodged off the road when I could.
I usually run on the left as required in the race, but traffic was so heavy, and the guys so nuts, I was forced to the right, and just kept an ear out for traffic coming up the road.
It was slow going up Pulehu, and traffic only dropped off as we hit Pulehuiki; that section of steep ups that never seems to end. I pushed hard telling myself that this was a place were I could catch up on David and powered to the top. It was still slow. I just had too much water in the pack, and too many emergency items to keep my weight down. I made the turn onto the Kekaulike Highway at about 3:30, at least 30 and perhaps 45 minutes behind my best race pace.
It was light by then, and the lowlands were beautiful. The Haleakala was shrouded in clouds. I could look down on Kahalui, and the Wailuku plains. The ocean was turning from gray to a dusky blue. There were plenty of birds in the trees of the small farms along the road, a goat here, a cow there. One old Japanese lady was tending her small patch of strawberries, another woman was wandering her gardens with a pair of binoculars looking for birds. I waved to people, said good morning, and they would stare at me briefly as I strode hard up the hill past them.
I made the second water cache and downed a large portion of a container of gator-aide. I was jamming potato chips into my mouth when I turned to find that the lady I had recently passed was once again right behind me. It was a testament to the slowness of my pace. I burped loudly in surprise, and with barely a nod to her I took off again. At every switch back I noticed the woman was still just behind me. I was still fantasizing that cup of coffee and at each turn I half watched to see if she would offer that out as an alternative to the long haul up the road. Then somewhere on a long switchback she disappeared.
It's maybe six to eight miles of switchbacks up to the ranger station. You can look up the hill across the pastureland and see the road high up, almost beyond distinction. Occasionally a bus or a car would move like a small white bug across the hillside. I put my head down and just pushed on, while watching the dead and dying earthworms that had come out onto the heat of the road in the wetness of the mountain night slowly disintegrate under my feet. There were tens of thousands of worms on the black shinny asphalt. Some still trying to find their way back to the side of the road, most just memories of what they had been. And there were hundreds of cow plops. It seemed the cows, too, came onto the road at night to warm themselves in the heat of the dark road. All along the side of the road there was evidence of their night gathering. Looking down as I forced my stride, my best understanding of the climb was cow plops and dead worms. The views were everywhere, but only occasionally noticed, the road was the center of my universe. The cantered side a growing aggravation, the running water, the mud, offered distractions, and the white line at the outside of the lane marking the edge of my narrow 'right of way' world.
At each switchback one has to make the decision to stay left, as the race rules require, or to move to the right. When there are a hundred people on the road it is easy to stay left on the hairpins that bend and cut through the hillsides up and to the left. When you are alone, the thought of somebody cutting the corner is always with you, and bikers are often reluctant to get into the road. It can be dangerous rounding the blind bends.
There were cows grazing up the hillsides. They ignored the cars, but found me note worthy. They would stop their grazing and stare blankly at me as I moved past. I talked to them, made noises, called them. They just looked at me, their heads following my progress. Only a few seemed ready to move toward me. I'd moo at them and they would shake their heads and trot away, looking for more peaceful forage.
Rounding on right hand switchback I came upon a family pulled of to the side of the road. The father had a tourist book on the hood of the car and was talking intently on the phone to a tour agent. The young son was standing at the back of the car, the trunk up, getting something to eat. For a moment I thought he was ready to offer me something. We exchanged greetings as I went by. The old man was saying "So basically every price has increased from the ones that are advertised. Well what about the 'Wild' dolphin Tour is that still open? I ran on thinking about the meaning of such a tour. Wild dolphins were Mahimahi. Did that mean you got a nice fish sandwich? Or if were porpoise they referred to, what did one do to ensure you got to meet wild dolphins.
I ran on, making the turn, coming past them 100 feet below me. The father now haranguing his wife about the prices and the need to find some kind of tour for the afternoon. The woman walking the dog strode past them. It just seemed stupid. The whole fucking island lay below them and this nerd had to have somebody take him on a planned event to fill his day. But many tourists think swimming with the dolphins....the mammals not the fish, is something everyone does when they visit Hawaii.
I was alone most of the time as I pushed up the switchbacks. The occasional bike riders would fly down past me, a few of the slower ones offering a 'Good Morning!' That's another event many people plan for Maui. They get a ride up the mountain and then coast down. It seems a bit stupid to me. But I am sure there were not many people who passed me in cars or on bikes who would have willingly traded places. One in a hundred would do what I am doing, maybe one in a thousand. The rest wanted to coast down the hills, applying the brakes, getting some thrill over the drop. The tours are fairly well managed. I passed a group getting ready, and the guide was instructing them on the hand signals he would be using. Most had vans following them down. There were only a few markers on the side of the road noting where some poor soul ended his trip off to the side of the road.
The slopes became wetter as I climbed. The hillsides were flushing water, and the streams flowing stronger than I had ever seen before. It started to get a bit cold, but the long sleeve running shirt was still sufficient. The mists came in occasionally, the fog dropped down the mountain at intervals, but for the most part the weather stayed up higher, and above 6500 feet. Three was a great view of the west end of Maui. I could occasionally look down and see the slopes I had climbed. At a few points I could actually see the entire route. With a telescope I felt I could look right down and see the House of Pancakes sign at the edge of the Maui Mall, where we had started.
My legs were holding up well. I had a bit of a problem with my left foot, which is normal. I stopped occasionally to pull the sock up to eliminate the hot spot I felt on the heel. I knew I would not escape unscathed but I have learned that one much react immediately to heat on the feet. it is the only way to survive a long run. Other than that I was feeling good and just working on my concentration. When I get good concentration my thoughts become quiet and I live the steps. The miles move by about every fifteen minutes, and I watch the hours slip by. One hour, become like the last, one mile similar to the previous, each step a concentrated stride. I monitor my reactions, my feelings, and make minor adjustments, and then take the next step.
It became cooler and more windy as I worked my way up the switchbacks. Near the top, at the point where the road works it way along the mountain toward the Park entrance, it became chilly. I pushed on. By then Charles and Stella had come up the hill and were acting as an aid team. At one stop I ditched a lot of my excess gear. My load became lighter and my stride easier. Charles and I joked about where David was. He had stretched out his lead to almost a half-hour. I realized I was going to have problems catching him. I joked that we needed some really cold weather. It might discourage him. I needed some help from mother nature.
We hit the park at mile 25 and it had been my plan to ride through the gate with Charles and Stella. Charley handed me a five dollar bill and told me to walk through. I had to fight the cars to get to the pay window. "I'm walking here asshole!" I pushed on toward the lower visitors center. I spotted David high up on the switchbacks and pushed. At the visitors center I stopped to put on my running vest. In 20 steps the mists had rolled in and it was twenty degrees chillier. The walk up the switchbacks into the park became dark gray corridors with limited visibility. Most people slowed for me, others just ignored me, some seemed to come at me. Nasty stuff. My yellow clothing helped to keep the cars away from me.
At 7500 feet it got cold, the water was rushing and dripping off the mountain sides. The streams were flowing. The Mountain was heavy with water. Cars sprayed up thick curtains of water off of the water flowing down the road, augmenting the mists. I ducked my head and pushed on.
Suddenly the clouds were gone. The sky was blue and the heat of the sun was a relief. I marched down the road feeling better. I hit the switchback, turned the corner and down the hillsides came a wave of cold foggy air. In moment I was damp and chilled again. I strode on breathing rapidly to compensate for the thin air.
I don't know what I was thinking about. I enjoyed the shrubbery at that roadside, the waterfalls and seeps, and watched the occasional birds, kept an eye out for the traffic, monitored my pace. I was focused on catching David. But it was a slow motion chase. I didn't want to stop long for anything as I knew I could not make up the time once I had lost it. The stops at the car were quick affairs, taking 30 seconds and no longer. A few brief words, a few gulps of water, grab something to eat and walk away munching on it. I'd wave and think Charles and Stella as they passed me.
What struck us all was how routine the run had become. I remember when I made a big production about running the Run to the Sun. Now David and I were doing it with limited support, and making good time. We had both matured as Ultra runners, and the distance was no longer intimidating. Each of us just pushed on, facing each new hardship with determination and persistence. We were getting to the top, we just had to keep moving. Charles and Stella had saved my ass on the Mauna Kea squared run, but this one was much easier. I was ready for the cold a bit more, and seemed more ready for the altitude. But it was a shorter run. We were doing 36 not 58. Twelve, twelve and twelve, is a lark compared to thirty-five , twelve and twelve. And Mauna Kea was another four thousand feet higher.
I hit eight thousand feet and knew I was about an hour away from the end. The mile markers were hitting 18 and it was 22 to the summit. The air was thinner, the mists cooler. At once switchback David called down to me from above. It didn't seem that far ahead. Less than a mile, perhaps. I pushed on, jogging a bit when I could. I was feeling better than I did in the morning, but the altitude was robbing me of my strength. I hyperventilated, forcing more oxygen into my system, the chill air beginning to hit my lungs. I switched to nose breathing, hoping my sinuses would warm the air. I'd run for fifty yards, stride on, run again when I had the energy. All the while I knew David would be pushing harder now that he had seen me. Time was running out. I could gain a few minutes a mile, maybe ten over all. He was at least ten ahead of me. He was going to beat me if he didn't break down completely. I knew he was not going to fall apart. I settled for a close second and kept pushing. Now I was racing the clock. Clawing back time from what I calculated as an over 10 hour finish when I had been at the bottom of the crater road. Now 19 miles up, I was shooting for a 9:30. Push, I kept screaming to myself, push and keep going.
The clouds were whipping up and down the mountain in ragged streams of white and gray mist. At one point I passed through a stream of mist heading down the valley, while just ahead of me another band of cloud moved just as quickly up the mountain. In between I found a clear area where the sky was almost blue. Then it was gone, the wind whipping at my face, and drops of rain spattering the road. Now and then the Sun shone and the gravels glistened, the glass volcanic chips of rock sparkling in the brownish red soil. High on the barren slopes occasional silver swords grew, their curving leaves giving them a ball like appearance.
I was hoping the weather would clear as I reached the summit ridge, but it only got worse. The fog and clouds closing in and the road disappearing in front of me. I knew there was a jog to the right and the final climb to the visitors center. I pushed on looking for the ridge and the switchback. My hands were cold. At the car I pulled on a pair of gloves and tied my Lost Soul fleece to my waist. I pushed on. David was only fifteen minutes ahead.
The visitors center lies below the true summit. If you don't know that it is an unpleasant surprise. Almost another mile of up lies before you. The altitude sign says 9500, and you have a mile and 500 feet to go. Difficult even in good weather. It was blowing, misty and very cold. I pulled my bandanna up from around my neck and put it over my face, hoping to warm the air going into my lungs. The wind whipped directly in my face. I could not run. I forced my breath and push on with my stride, leaning into the wind, hiding my face, ignoring the chill. Finally I saw the access road to the Observatories. A jig to the right and the final hundred feet of up. I pushed through the grey clouds and wind. I hit the parking lot, the ground leveled, walked toward the steps, called to David, and he and Charles and I went to the top to get a few pictures at the summit lookout, where the sign reads 10053. I had made it to the top in nine thirty.
It was my fourth summit of Haleakala. I breathed a sigh of relief and silently made a date to meet the spirits again in a few months time.
I was satisfied with the run. I had maintained constant effort over the entire distance and I had never bonked. It had been almost 9.5 hours of constant effort. I had done it without apparent injury and was in a state at the top where I could have gone on much longer. I had achieved my goals. David had beaten me. I credited that to carrying far too much weight at the beginning. I could have carried 50 ounces less water and would not have gone without. I could have dropped some other stuff as well. If I could have jogged along the bottom stretches I could have cut my time and been near even with him at the crater road. If I had been insight of him, within a quarter of a mile or so , I don't think he could have held me back. But that is the way these competitions are. David did a great job of keeping it together with little long distance training. I'm as proud of his effort as I am of mine. There are not many people who could make the thirty six mile run up the Haleakala a fairly ordinary day run. We both did that. It was a great ending to the Year, a wonderful way to bring in the new one.
I have a date with the Mountain in March. I hope to break 8:00 by then. We will see.
Labels: Haleakala, running adventures, Sea to Summit
